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Thread FAQs
Thread Weight

Thread thickness/Weight/Tex/Denier guide.

Weight

Tex

Denier

Comments

11

91

818

 

12

83

750

Bulky thread, can be used as bobbin thread.

15

67

600

 

17

59

529

 

20

50

450

 

28

36

321

 

30

33

300

 

40

25

225

Normal weight, most designs digitized for this weight.

50

20

180

 

60

17

150

Considered very thin. For embroidery, lingerie, fine lace.

70

14

129

 

80

13

113

 

90

11

100

 

100

10

90

 

  • Thread Weight. A smaller weight number indicates a heavier thread. The weight of a thread is actually a length measurement. Dividing the length of thread by a set weight derives the exact measurement of a thread weight. A thread is labeled 40 wt. when 40 kilometers of that thread weighs 1 kilogram. A 30 wt. thread and is heavier because a it takes only 30 kilometers of thread to weigh one kilogram.
  • Denier. Weight in grams of 9000 meters of thread. If 9,000 meters weighs 120 grams, it is a 120-denier thread. Many polyester and rayon embroidery threads are 120/2, which equals 2 strands of 120-denier thread for a 240 denier total. Larger denier numbers are heavier threads.
  • Tex. Weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 25 grams, it is a tex 25. Larger tex numbers are heavier threads
"Invisible" Thread

Both Sulky and Superior Threads make polyester based invisible thread. Polyamide or nylon threads are manufactured by several well-known brands. Nylon based thread can be heat sensitive.

Thread Tips
  • Long thread paths between cone and needle can help minimize breakage, especially on metallic threads.
  • Put your thread holder on the floor, or on a shelf- the idea is to make the thread travel a long way before it goes through your machine's tension guides.
  • Zig-zag through cup hooks helps, too. If you are experiencing thread breakage, try putting the thread in the freezer for an hour or so and then try again. Believe it or not, this can stop the breakage in many cases.
Thread Problems

Common causes of "loopies" are:

  • incorrect upper tension (try tightening first)
  • stitching at too high of a speed (your best embroidery is rarely at the top speeds)
  • bobbin tension too loose (on a column, you should see 1/3 upper and 2/3 bobbin on the back side)
  • hoop and/or fabric is flagging (the bouncing stretches the thread)
Metallics

Depending upon the metallic thread, usually you need about 15-20% lighter density.

  • Some metallics (Madeira) reportedly don't require lighter densities.
  • Use longer stitch lengths when digitizing for metallics.
Normal Embroidery thread materials
  • Rayon -Rayon was the normal choice of thread material until a few years ago. Rayon thread has a great sheen. Rayon is not as sturdy as polyester.
  • Polyester -Early polyester threads stretched too much and the colors were not as brilliant as rayon. Today, steady advances in poly have solved all of the old problems and given us a thread that is not only colorfast, but also has brilliant color, and sews great. Poly stretches rather than breaks. A quality that makes it very popular with machine embroiderers. But, if the thread stretches too much and doesn't rebound fast enough, you end up with a loopie.
  • Newer polyester threads have quick snap-back to original length, minimizing problems.
  • Cotton -Cotton thread allows for a wide range of tension adjustments because of its texture. It has a nice sheen, is quite sturdy (though finer threads above 50 wt. are not), and typically used for machine embroidery.
Specialty Thread Types
  • Wooly nylon -Wooly nylon produces fluffy effects. When it is too thick and cumbersome to thread through the top tensioners and needles, it can be wound on the bobbin, and the design sewn "upside-down".
  • Silk -Silk embroidery thread hardly breaks and has its own unique, and probably the best sheen. Threads come in various sizes but their availability is low so they are mostly used for luxury fabrics.
  • Metallic -Metallic is perhaps the hardest thread to work with. It is prone to breaking. Long thread paths between the thread cone and your machine may minimize breaking.
  • Mylar -Plies of film are combined into a layer, cut into slices to create Mylar threads. They are durable but may break under high-speed sewing. One unique color feature is holographic hue, which picks up and reflects light or color from other surrounding objects. This really enhances the color and design of the embroidery.
Thread Quality Evaluation:
  • Tensile Strength: The tensile strength of an embroidery thread can be tested by sawing a suspended strand with another strand back and forth until the first strand breaks. The faster it breaks, the lower the strength and quality of that particular thread type.
  • Elongation: A good thread must have the right amount of stretch. Take a piece of the thread and stretch it till it breaks. The strand should neither break too quickly nor stretch for too long.
  • Sheen: The luster and quality of the sheen can be tested by studying the color and design of a finished embroidery product.
Thread Color Charts:

Perhaps the best thread color charts are in Embird. But then, I'm prejudiced. Here are other web-based charts: